Maarten's Kreidler Club!

ik mis de linkse moer

Viel er bijna af Claus terwijl de moer zeer vast zat.

Enzo

Richtig, zum Schutz der Kurbelwelle ist es grundsätzlich besser, die Mutter draufzulassen, während man den Abzieher benutzt. Das wurde auch von Kreidler so empfohlen.

Carsten

Hello Guys,

whilst parts are beeing modified, I still need to resolve other issues, and prevent furtherer problems.

One of the problem I had when riding those quick 600km :

Iddle was good, high rpm and middle too...but I always needed to open fast the gas, or it was stalling... Explain : Too rich on the first 1/4 of opening, causing severe stall.

When it was idling, even a small movement of throttle caused the stall, clogging the engine... and after passing the first gear, to go, I was forced to open full throotle, it was hobbling a few second before going finally into higher rpm. It sounds like a too rich mixture...

But with 78 main jet, and mixture screw to an half turn back.... last issue, the "gasschuif" or the needle and needle jet.

I first discover several stripes on the gasschuif, causing very much play/clearance between him and the carb. Second, the needle had very much play too... Not sur if it is normal. I dont know the actual position of the needle, because I can't remove the clip, wonder if I can without breaking everything. How do you remove correctly this clip ?

Other thing is that the bottom of the gasschuif is marked by the iddle screw... Strange because I NEVER increased iddle speed without opening throtle (I know it is knowed to broke alu gasschuif). Looks like it is only when I let throttle down that the gaschuif hit the screw...

I will probably need a new one, but I only find imitatie... The Carb is a 1/20/59, original one.

And finally, the floatter float, very good state, and the pin is leakfree.

Thanks

You can adjust the needle by turning and pulling it.

You remove the ring (Part 11 Zackenring) just by moving it with for exemple a screw driver ? I had the impression I will broke it when trying to remove.
http://www.faak-tillmanns.com/shop/u/TV ... -20-59.pdf

Sturmovik schreef:You remove the ring (Part 11 Zackenring) just by moving it with for exemple a screw driver ? I had the impression I will broke it when trying to remove.
http://www.faak-tillmanns.com/shop/u/TV ... -20-59.pdf

Not the right picture


viewtopic.php?f=4&t=46664&hilit=gasschuif+baan

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=45084&hilit=Bing+gasschuif

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=38029&hilit=Bing+gasschuif

Hello guys,

with the work I only have the week-end time to continue, so slow but certainly...



I am preparing the carters for remount, and we can see the light of my lamp passing through a bit of play... My tiny 0.05mm jauge cannot pass, so I think the gasket (thicker than last one) will compensate the defaut.

I expect this is from factory or earlier "work", because I always tightened screw in good order (crossing) and with the correct torque. Blok never leaked, but I wanna make it perfect.

For the bearing mount I remember last year you advised me hoven instead of my welding lamp, because heat was to close and not homogeneous... Question, how many degrees, how long, and on what ? "Cause I cannot just put my carter on the hoven grid, I think it will bend the carter, or ?

I am wondering if I "correct" those casting imperfection (orange arrows) with a small file...

Thanks, have a nice week-end.

Hello,

After some cleaning, carters are fat free. First made with Benzin and an old brush... than rincing with hot water and lemon... Not shiny but clean.



I used some britte scotch sponge for cleaning gasket plan, and used a diamond tool to erase small asperities... Ideally I wanted to use a marble with 1000 paper or grinding paste, but I havent one :/ The use of klingerit gasket can compensate small defaut, but... Yet the screw are not tightened...

Also, I cleaned some screw thread with a tap.

Today I take cooked my carter instead of meat ^^ And after 30mins at 100°C, all bearing felt down easily in carters




Otherthing, I mounted the two NSK BO17. Right that they look much stronger than the plastic FAG. Even the outer ring is thicker.




Tomorrow some axial play session ^^

Hello Guys, waiting for some parts to finish the blok, I am looking on other problems. The few kilometers I rode this summer I felt something wrong with the suspensions. The shock absorbers are bumpy... they are smooth, but they bounce... I remind that I revised the two shockabsorber by replacing the oil and all the rubbers. Dont remember which viscosity and quantity it was but I took it from a topic of this forum.

To compare with my genuine but revised bouncy shok absorbers, the fork dont work correctly. Getting 2 years back, I've overhauled the thing. Chrome was good, I changed all rubbers, even 2 new nylon buses and their conic rubber (mounted in the correct direction). I also followed yours advises an let modified on lathe the "sport keerring" that I only use as mud cap today, I mounted those HD Keerring, and 175ml of SAE10 per tube...

It is already leaking, but I hope it's because I let the bike in garage for a year before finishing it, but thats a detail...

The fork is very hard, when I get on a bump, only the swing arm "swing"/move... the fork barely move, only few milimeters. If I want the fork to absorb I had to brake hard in front... For exemple even when I sit on the bike, only the rear sit down, the front dont move.

I know that normally a bike should get down same front and back... We can say that mine goes only down in back when passing bumps, causing bounces...

I confirm that front wheel is goud mounted, first tightening the axis, and after only the SW bolt So nothing is bend.

I may try an other viscosity the same time I may change the defekt HD Keerring an mounting 2 per tubes this time instead of only one.

Are the original suspensions supposed to be confortable, meaning I made something wrong, or is it genuine hard has a german sports car ? My bad chinese Denfeld seat does not help ^^

I also overhauled the fork of my Friend RS with same parts, and he has the same problem, so it may jsut be my oil...

If you got ideas, welcome

Thanks

i had the same problem with my frontfork.
Checked it again , nothing wrong...
at last i changed the oil for another brand , problem solved

Hello Caspar,

You remember which viscosity you chose for the fork ? I was thinking about buying Hagon shokbrekker a day, because as I said my ori aren't good working I think. I mounted them right, and no leak, so I maybe not used the good viscosity, they are bumpy.

Thanks, Florian

At last i used Valvoline synthetic fork oil , without viscosity ....
Now all is well. Before it was very bumpy indeed.

Hagons are fine , but for about €65,- there are imi non-ajustable (black-)shock absorbers , They work just fine . The Chrome ajustable absorbers are not that fine

Hello Guys,

finally I took a bit of time, between two christmas dining, to continue the work on the blok.

I had troubles with the Clutch Axis from Arnold, this was curious, a 30 teeth, normally should be 31, causing I could not mount the hevel. May be a factory mistake, Arnold generously send me a new one



Otherwise, I had trouble with both schakelnaaf and kickstarter axis. They were to wide, curiously. See on picture that the schakelnaaf hook was no more alligned to the schakelvalls like in the past :



Arnold advised me to use the two 1mm slices he gaved to me. This corrected the centering of hook but caused the impossibility to close carters :



We finally removed the ring Nr 15.06.32 and keep only the bended ring above schakelnaaf spring... Don't know why the hook was not centered because Arnold did not modified wide of axis, normally only O-Ring machining

Now it is good, let do some measurement : First without any "vulring" to estimate which ones to choose...

Estimate of Schakelvalls play to "uitschimmen" : Easier to calculate than to make the axis moving for reading dial indicator when blok is closed !


Than lets measure those axis first, whith the krukas on the same time, with gasket and torque tightened carter screws. I will do gearbox later.


The results are saying me which slice to choose. For the crank, I have to ad some vulringen !

So first use of the trekker. Glad I have this oil filter wrench to maintain the tool....


I was generous with oil, so worry to scratch a BO17 ring with the tool. But everything worked fine.


In regards to the first mount dial measures, I try with 1 0.15mm slice per side. Wanna see on next measure if we approach the play of 0.03mm, it is gonna be difficult I think to have perfect play.

Next round tomorrow ^^

Hello,

this is false. Please put the shimms away!!!!

Have a look at the partlist, because you can' t find there spacers.

It' s for the oil . You need oli for the bearing in the Kickstarter- gear....

best regards....

THe problem is that I cannot remove those two shims, the hook is forced, not centered, it trap on the schakelvalls... And i am searching to understand why my two axis are not centered anymore, they are well mounted in carters, so the offset is very strange.

If I mount the schakelnaad without those two extra ring, I actually bend the hook for gear change... But the problem is that with those two slice I have not enough axial play

No,

the big Seegering and the big shim outside of the motor housing put it in the correkt line and position .......

it´s no problem... realy

If you can´t close the housing, the Propblem is the Kickstarter Spring... and put in the 1 gear..., than you can close the housing.

and i think its better to place this modifikation outside...

Modificatie zit er op.

dat is top...

So, the schakelnaaf should normally been hold by the seegering outside of the left carter ? In this case it will be centered with the schakelvalls right ?

See that actually, before closing the blok, the hook is way to far from the schakelvalls :


Problem is that I can not mount like you advised me, I have no appropriate "groef" outside to put the flat ring and the big seegering :/



See the parts,

The o ring groef looks close from the border of schakelnaaf where the shift lever go :



Arnold explained me that with the extra left carter keerring bus, we can not use anymore the outside seegerring like in the past. If I understand it is the reason why I should now center the schakelnaaf with those two extra shims on the kickstarter axis. The problem is that I haven"t ENOUGH axial play with this mounting.

Or maybe I just make something wrong. I always have crazy troubles with mecanic, wonder a day when it will be perfect from begin to end ^^

What are your montage with left carter modificatie and extra o-rings ? My two carter are paired, so no problem on this side ^^

Actually, I barelly cannot have 0.5mm of axiaplay on schakelnaaf, only 0.20/0.30

That was my first restauration montage :


Seegering outside carter without place to put a ring, and "spring ring" + flat ring above the exenter spring...

Any idea ? Thanks for your patience

you doesn' t need the seegering by the modification..
on my photo is the Seegering only show and protection

So with carter modification you ad to use those to slice to center the schakelnaaf that is now hold between carter and kickstarter axis right ?

Maybe i just hesitate on problems who aren't so much problems or ? ^^

You have no problems with 0,3 mm

Eifelyeti schreef:and i think its better to place this modifikation outside...

Hello,

This looks better